Once we say Zamboanga Metropolis is colourful, we’re not simply referring to the color-blocked sail of the vinta or the rosy glow of Santa Cruz Grande Island’s Pink Seaside. The vividness of Asia’s Latin Metropolis goes past what the eyes can see. Its intricate historical past as a settlement and kaleidoscopic mixture of cultures are finest skilled by way of one other elementary sense — the sense of style.
Zamboanga Metropolis is one in every of our most-loved meals locations for the sheer vary and variety of what it might probably carry to the (eating) desk. From the saucy red-orange sticks of satti to the motley flavors of knickerbocker, listed here are a few of Zamboanga’s most sought-after culinary delights and the place to seek out them.
Ever heard of curacha?
If it sounds acquainted, it’s most likely as a result of it reminds you of La Cucaracha, a Mexican folks track a couple of cockroach that additionally turned fairly widespread within the Philippines. Curacha (in Chavacano) and cucaracha (in Spanish) imply the identical — cockroach. And it’s no shock provided that Chavacano, Zamboanga’s dominant language, is a Spanish-based Creole.
However earlier than you lose your urge for food, know that we’re not going to ask you to go full Worry Think about Zamboanga. As an alternative, we’re inviting you to have a style of essentially the most mouth-watering crustaceans that the area has to supply — spanner crabs!
Curacha received its identify due to its spiky, bushy look that kinda resembles you-know-what. However in case you look intently, it kinda seems just like the love little one of a large crab and a protracted lobster. And since it packs extra meat and extra taste than the crabs we’re used to, they’re wanted. Fortunately, they thrive within the waters surrounding the area.
For a lot of, the perfect place to have a style of curacha is Alavar Seafood Restaurant, which serves curacha cooked in and doused with its well-known specialty sauce, which is produced from coconut milk, aligue (crab roe paste) and varied spices. This tremendous wealthy sauce mixed with the seafood umami bombs which might be curacha, you’ll by no means style different crab dishes the identical means once more.
However be warned: It’s not low-cost. You may order curacha by the kilo (minimal 1 kg). The final time we dined right here, a kilo of it in alavar sauce prices P1500 to P1700, relying on the scale of the crabs.
The sauce alone is unforgettable. It’s so widespread that vacationers drop by Alavar on the way in which to the airport to take residence frozen packs of it.
Alavar Seafood Restaurant
Handle: 173 Don Alfaro Road, Zamboanga Metropolis
Working Hours: Each day, 10:00 am – 10:00 pm
Specialty: Curacha in Alavar Sauce
However in case you’d moderately take residence freshly caught curacha, head over to Aderes Flea Market in Guiwan. You should buy raw curacha at a cheaper price right here, together with lobsters and different seafood.
How acquainted are you with Moro dishes? Just a little bit? Not fairly? In no way?
If you happen to stay in Metro Manila or close by areas, you most likely haven’t tried it. (Or in my case earlier than my Zamboanga journey, not even heard of it.) We’re used to dishes from Luzon and Visayas. Many people are much more acquainted with international fare. So when in Zamboanga, have a style of Moro delicacies!
Greater than a 3rd of Zamboanga Metropolis’s inhabitants observe Islam. The Moros, Filipino Muslims, have developed a meals tradition that’s fascinatingly totally different from different areas. Whereas garlic, onions and ginger stay widespread elements, the Moros wish to additionally use spices like galangal, lemongrass, kaffir lime and turmeric, that are extra ordinary in our maritime Southeast Asian neighbors.
You’ll additionally discover that the Tausugs love utilizing coconut milk and — get this — burnt or charred coconut, which provides lots of its dishes its black look. It does look a bit of bit intimidating at first look, however belief me, it’s tremendous scrumptious. It doesn’t style burnt in any respect, however it gives depth and complexity to its style that’s fairly exhausting to explain. You’ve gotta style it your self.
In Zamboanga Metropolis, essentially the most handy place for vacationers to pattern Moro dishes is Bay Tal Mal. It’s as a result of they serve latal (P959), which is a platter of varied Tausug dishes together with the next:
- Tiyulah itum (tiyula itum or tiulah itum, actually “black soup”), beef in black broth made with burnt coconut and spices.
- Beef kulma, beef cubes stewed in a curry sauce.
- Piyassak, beef liver cubes cooked with pounded spices, charred coconut and coconut milk
- Rooster piyanggang, hen marinated in burnt coconut and varied spices after which grilled.
- Rooster kaliya, hen stewed in coconut milk with lemongrass, turmeric, ginger and different spices.
- Beef adobo
- Fried fish
- Fried shrimp or squid
- Kiyaliya kapaya, papaya; or cucumber sambal (the sambal is so fab delish!)
Though not on the menu, I feel one of many dishes on our platter was utak-utak (fried fish cake).
You may take pleasure in this platter of delicacies with rice. However we often add a plate of mee goreng (P259), which is served with exhausting boiled egg. We simply love mie goreng so we order it each time we spot it on the menu. (LOL.) However they’ve much more objects on its menu.
After I tried it for the primary time, Bay Tal Mal was nonetheless situated alongside Mayor Jaldon Road. But it surely has since moved to the 4th degree of SM Mindpro.
Bay Tal Mal Restaurant
Handle: 4th ground, SM Mindpro, La Purisima Road, Zamboanga Metropolis
Working Hours: Monday-Thursday, 10:00 am – 8:00 pm; Friday, 9:00 am – 5:00 pm; Saturday-Sunday, 10:00 am – 9:00 pm
Specialty: Latal (platter of Tausug dishes)
One other restaurant that serves this Tausug tray of goodness is Dennis Espresso Backyard, located close to the airport. Right here, they name it dulang (P1100), however it’s principally the identical. However whereas Bay Tal Mal’s platter has 10 totally different dishes, Dennis’s has six.
Talking of Dennis Espresso Backyard…
Dennis Espresso Backyard‘s roots will be traced again all the way in which to 1962 Jolo, Sulu, the place a small cafe referred to as Omar’s Place was established. Sixty years later, the identify has modified and a number of branches have sprouted together with this one in Zamboanga Metropolis.
We already talked about the dulang or latal that they serve right here. However it’s extra well-known for one thing else — you guessed it — COFFEE! Dennis Espresso Backyard takes satisfaction of their genuine espresso referred to as the kahawa sug, which will be served scorching or iced. It’s extra on the robust finish of the spectrum, so in case you favor daring espresso, this may very well be for you! The iced model, nevertheless, is served with milk.
Apart from Sulu espresso, it’s also widespread for his or her bangbang sug or native Tausug pastries. We labored up an urge for food earlier that day so we determined to order the entire objects on their snack menu! Apart from, we actually needed to attempt all of them! Every merchandise prices P95 now. The final time we visited (2022), it was solely P65.
- Jualan saing, deep-fried bananas with sweetened coconut dip (consider it as a deconstructed banana que)
- Jualan panggih, deep-fried candy potatoes with sweetened coconut dip (form of a deconstructed camote que)
- Daral, crepe with candy filling product of coconut (filling tastes like bukayo)
- Panggih-panggih, deep-fried flour rings
- Wadjit, glutinous rice cooked in coconut milk (unavailable throughout our go to)
- Pitis, glutinous rice flour truffles with coconut filling, wrapped in banana leaves
- Patulakan, pounded rice with milk and grated coconut, wrapped in banana leaves
- Biyaki, grated candy corn truffles, wrapped in corn husks then steamed
We additionally ordered pastil, which has similarities to empanada with togue filling and served with a candy and spicy sauce. (We additionally tried pastil in Tawi-tawi however it had bihon noodles as filling.)
Out of all of this, we loved jualan saing, daral, biyaki and panggih-panggih essentially the most!
Dennis Espresso Backyard
Branches: San Jose Street (Baliwasan), KCC Mall Zamboanga Metropolis, Yubengco (Tetuan), and Southern Heights (La Paz)
Specialty: Kahawa sug (Sulu espresso) and Bangbang sug (Tausug pastries)
As we explored Zamboanga Metropolis, we couldn’t assist however discover that lots of institutions serve so-called satti. We even noticed a lot of regular-looking homes with indicators that learn, “We serve satti”. It received us extremely curious! Satti feels like satay (hen satay, beef satay), so I had my concepts on what it may very well be. However many satti signages had illustrations of bowls, not sticks of meat, which confused us at first.
Effectively, nicely, it turned out that satti is certainly just like satay (grilled skewered meat). However on this a part of the world, it’s often served half-dipped in a bowl of red-orange spicy sauce with cubes of molded rice. And to my shock, that is truly a breakfast favourite! Nothing beats a spicy kick to begin the day!
Once we requested the locals (principally tricycle drivers) for the perfect satti place within the metropolis, all fingers pointed at Jimmy’s Satti Meals Haus. Sadly, as a result of time constraints, we did not pay a go to. Too unhealthy!
(That mentioned, we have been in a position to attempt satti at Dennis Espresso Backyard! I’m a sucker for something grilled and spicy, so it was love at first chunk for me. I nonetheless want I received to attempt Jimmy’s although. However I suppose this provides me a cause to return to Zamboanga!)
Jimmy’s Satti Meals Haus
Handle: Pilar Road, Zamboanga Metropolis
Working hours: 3:30 am – 5:30 pm
Specialty: Satti
If you happen to’re craving pork, you is likely to be stunned to know that one space in Zamboanga has mastered the artwork of constructing lechon! Sure, entire pig roasted to perfection! Right here in Tetuan, lechon is offered at kiosks stationed alongside the highway. And there are many them right here!
I used to be fairly shocked to study it at first as a result of town has a big Muslim inhabitants. Earlier than setting foot right here for the primary time, I initially (mistakenly) assumed that pork — a staple protein in Pinoy kitchens elsewhere — could be notably absent in most components of town as a result of it’s forbidden in Islam. However there it was, a road lined with pork lechon stalls promoting kilo after kilo of suckling pig.
Once we requested locals for suggestions, one institution that was constantly talked about was Prince Tasty Lechon. They’ve a number of stalls all through town, however we selected the one in Tetuan, only a brief stroll from Alavar.
Like others beside it, Prince is a small stall with a suckling pig on show as a employees member chops away. You may ask for a bit of the crispy pores and skin to have a style. A kilo prices P550 (as of January 2025, it’s now P600). You may also order half a kilo, which is at P350. You may have it as an entire slab or have it chopped.
Tetuan lechon is commonly in comparison with Cebu’s extra well-known model. When you style it, it’s not obscure why. It’s simply so flavorful! The pores and skin is tremendous crispy however not exhausting; it breaks with the gentlest of bites. The meat is moist, juicy and tender. The mix of calamansi, garlic, onions, pepper, bay leaf and different herbs seeps so deep into the meat. We weren’t given any sauce. Undecided if it truly is eaten with out it or the employees simply forgot. However regardless, there’s no want for it.
If a kilo or half a kilo continues to be an excessive amount of for you, you’ll be able to order a combol meal from Prince Foodcourt, situated on Estrada Road, only a brief stroll from their stall alongside Don Alfaro Road. For P150, the set contains 200 grams of lechon, two cups of rice, a small bowl of soup, and a drink.
Prince Tasty Lechon Fastfood
Handle: Estrada Road, Tetuan, Zamboanga Metropolis
Open: 9:00 am – 9:00 pm
Thus far, we’ve already coated principally fundamental programs and heavy proteins. How about we transfer on to dessert?
Right here in Zamboanga Metropolis, no different dessert has reached the legendary standing of the knickerbocker. The what?
Knickerbocker! Consider it because the fruitier, more healthy stepsister of the halo-halo. This loopy colourful concoction is a mixture of jellies and contemporary fruits like watermelon, apple, pineapply and mango, drizzled with condensed milk and topped with strawberry ice cream. It’s brilliant, candy, and creamy, good for laundry down no matter lunch or dinner you had.
As of late, you’ll be able to take pleasure in a cup from distributors at Paseo del Mar, however in case you’re after the unique, head over to Hacienda de Palmeras Lodge and Restaurant, broadly considered the institution that invented this tropical dessert. The restaurant is ready in a backyard in a quiet nook of town, however nonetheless simply accessible by jeepney or tricycle.
Hacienda de Palmeras Lodge and Restaurant
Handle: Pasonanca Street, Sta. Maria, Zamboanga Metropolis
Working Hours: Wednesday-Friday, 10:00 am – 10:00 pm; Saturday-Tuesday, 10:00 am – 8:00 pm
Specialty: Seafood and Knickerbocker
After all! Any TPT journey isn’t full with out pillaging the parks and again alleys for some good old school road meals! These on a regular basis accessible munchies inform so much in regards to the place, its folks, and its tradition. You could find road meals anyplace, particularly in busy areas like the general public market and across the metropolis corridor.
Typical Pinoy faves like kikiam, fish balls and banana que can be found, however you’ll additionally discover one thing distinctive to the area. My favourite is chikalang. No, not chika lang. Chikalang! It’s a glutinous rice cake rolled in brown sugar. It’s similar to pilipit or karioka, solely larger, denser, heavier and really very purple.
It’s often among the many many objects on peddlers’ bilao. We had it at Paseo del Mar!
R.T. Lim Boulevard additionally hosts a lot of road meals distributors. A number of the road meals decisions are satay or “ihaw-ihaw”, pastil, and lokot-lokot. You’ll additionally discover balut and penoy as quickly because the solar begins to set.
On our final go to, we observed locals promoting one thing in styrofoam containers. Curious, we approached one and requested what was inside. To our (pleasant) shock, it was mie goreng! It’s served with fried egg on prime and a calamansi on the facet, and drizzled with scorching sauce. At the moment, we snagged it for less than P35!
Coincidentally, we have been simply speaking about craving noodles simply moments earlier than so we didn’t even give it some thought! We additionally had a pleasant dialog with Kuya Jul, the vendor, as we stuffed our face with noodles.
It’s totally attainable to attempt all of the eating places and meals spots talked about above by yourself. In your itinerary, you’ll be able to insert a lunch or dinner cease, whichever is closest to the realm you’re exploring that day. (We’ll publish a pattern itinerary, so you’ll want to test again quickly.)
But when you need a extra insightful expertise, you might be part of a Meals and Tradition Tour, supplied by iTravel Vacationer Lane, led by Errold Bayona.
It was truly Errold who launched to us these wonderful foodie locations years in the past. So after I lately returned to Zamboanga, I already knew the place to go to eat.
You might contact them by way of any of the next:
We paid for the entire meals featured on this publish.
We have now tried three totally different resorts in Zamboanga and all of them have been first rate and nice:
You probably have a much bigger finances, you might also try these different properties within the space:
2025 2 1 – Up to date information together with opening hours and costs
2022 6 5 – First uploaded
Phrases by: Yosh Dimen
Pictures by: Yosh Dimen & Vins Carlos
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